Scotland Whisky: Islay (2 of 3)

Part 2 of 3:  The distilleries we visited in Islay.  Part 3 will include distilleries in many other regions.  Stay tuned!

Note:  All photos were taken by Kevin Bleicher and are not approved for re-posting or publication without permission.  © 2023 Kevin Bleicher

Related Posts:

• My Scotland Whisky Experience (1 of 3)

• Scotland Whisky: Highlands, Speyside, & Lowlands (3 of 3)

Islay

Islay (ˈaɪlə) is an island on the Southwest side of Scotland not far from the North Irish Coast (you can see it on a clear day).  We took a 2-hour ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig and stayed in Bowmore.  Unfortunately the Bowmore Distillery was closed while we were in town, so we had to settle for driving by and not visiting.  Bowmore is a small weather-beaten town, but it supports good restaurants, hotels, and, at least one great bar at the Bowmore Hotel with 700+ whiskies.  We took the ferry from Port Ellen to Kennacraig back to the mainland.

Most of the areas we drove through were expansive peat bogs that are still used to heat homes and make whisky  The southern coast near Port Ellen includes the best 2-mile stretch in Scotland with the Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg distilleries.  If you like smoky whisky, stay in Port Ellen near the ferry terminal and make a home of these three (a walking trail connects them).

This distilleries are on coasts and dramatically display their name to make it easier for supply boats. Their names are derived from the Scottish Gaelic and refer to the topology of their location (indicated, below).

From the Wikipedia Link for Regional Distinctions & Differences:  Region Characteristics: distilleries in the south [Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig]make whisky which is “medium-bodied … saturated with peat-smoke, brine and iodine” because they use malt that is heavy with peat as well as peaty water. Whisky from the northern area [Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila] is milder because it is made using spring water for a “lighter flavoured, mossy (rather than peaty), with some seaweed, some nuts…” characteristic. The national tourist board website says that the single malts from Islay vary by distillery, from “robust and smoky” to “lighter and sweeter”.

The Distilleries We Visited

• Bruichladdich (Brae [hillside] of the Shore)
  • Wikipedia
  • I’ve seen the aqua-colored Bruichladdich bottles over the years and I (incorrectly) assumed they must be hiding an inferior product.  That isn’t the case; everything I tried was good, including the 8-year-old unpeated that I brought back from duty-free.  This was my first extensive Scottish whisky tour and I loved learning how it all works.  Including their refurbished ‘Ugly Betty’ distillation tank that’s used to make Gin (with a “Bruichladder” laying against it) and the antique mash tun that’s still in use.
  • Pre-tasting:   I had a dram of “Octomore” at the local pub in Bowmore when I told the waiter I liked smoky.  Good call.  It was intense but I enjoyed it.
  • Tasting:  3 drams:  Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte, and Octomore.   I loved the Octomore (again):  high peat / smoky.  The others were also good.  Bruichladdich remains a favorite.

• Bunnahabhain (Mouth of the River)
  • Wikipedia
  • Great views of the ‘Paps of Jura’ just over the Sound of Islay.  Smaller scale; we did a tasting in a smallish tasting room with great views across the Sound.
  • Tasting:  3 Drams:  Stiuireadair, 12 Year Old, and Toiteach A Dhà (sherry influence).   All were good; this was a fairly laid-back non-busy place and it was easy to relax.

• Caol Ila (Sound [connecting water inlet] of Islay)
  • Wikipedia
  • One of four Scottish distilleries supplying Johnnie Walker for blending
  • This was my least-favorite tour.  It was extensive through the factory, but it began with a drawn out touchy-feely what-do-you-smell demonstration that went way too long with Disney-like effects that were unnecessary.  
  • Tasting:  Presented in a new facility with amazing views of the ‘Paps of Jura’.   3 tasting drams and a wee Johnny Walker cocktail.   They were fine; nothing great; nothing terrible, though I was probably negatively biased by the Johnny Walker connection.

Southern Coast (My Favorite of the Tour!)

• Ardbeg (The Small Promontory)
  • Wikipedia
  • We had a nice factory tour and did a group pose in front of the distillation column in the courtyard.  
  • Pre-Tasting:  I had a dram of “Heavy Vapours” at the local pub in Bowmore before the visit.  I LOVED it.  Heavy on the smokiness and smooth.  Ardbeg is my biased favorite distillery as a result!  Yes, I brought a bottle home.
  • Tasting:  I love the Ardbeg smokiness.  It’s over-the-top in a good way.  Unfortunately (or fortunately?), we had already visited Lagavulin and Laphroaig and it was hard to differentiate each dram at this point!  We were given a tasting glass (which we could keep) and had a pour at various stops along the tour rather than a tasting room at the end.  Different!

• Lagavulin (Hollow of the Mill)
  • Wikipedia
  • We were ‘upgraded’ for the Warehouse Experience.   Not a tour, but dozens of people sitting in a large circle surrounded by barrels in the wooden sampling warehouse.   Iain McArthur talked us through each of the tastings; he’s a character.  Quite funny and knows his stuff; a legend in the whisky world.   We could keep our sampling glass; they even gave us a box to protect it for the trip home.
  • Tasting:  Six drams; many special releases.  Lagavulin’s tasting wasn’t about the names of the whisky.  It was about tasting and savoring and falling in love with the brand.  Each was excellent, and after six drams we were feeling fine on our way to Ardbeg.

• Laphroaig (The Hollow of Broadbay)
  • Wikipedia
  • There was a keen love of Laphroaig within our group and high anticipation for the visit.  The tours were already booked up, however, so we headed straight for the tasting room and lined up custom-order flights which were slowly savored.  The flight came with a tasting sheet so you’d know what to focus on.  The tasting room was a wee bit small but there was enough turnover to find a table.
  • Tasting:  It’s Laphroaig.  They were delicious!   I favored the ‘Quarter Cask’ since the whisky picked up more of the barrel flavor from the smaller barrel with the 3rd maturation (the first two maturations were in larger bourbon barrels).  I purchased a bottle of ‘PX’ at duty-free and it’s delicious (3rd maturation in a sherry cask).

Coming Up Next: Part 3 of 3: Distilleries in the Highlands, Speyside, and Lowlands